Resource Guide
The City of San Jose Animal Care and Services (SJACS) located at 2750 Monterey Rd, San Jose, CA 95111 and Save A Kitten (SAK) are partnering together to ensure foster homes have the support they need to care for kittens.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS A PILOT PROGRAM. SPONSORSHIP FROM SAN JOSE ANIMAL CARE CENTER ENDS SEPTEMBER 30, 2016.
RULES OF PARTICIPATION (SPONSORSHIP FROM SJACS ENDS SEPTEMBER 30, 2016)
Only unaltered kittens under 3 months of age in foster homes not operating under a rescue, shelter or humane society are eligible. Foster homes must present kennel card with A# whenever requesting any services or supplies. Foster homes may receive supplies, VCA sponsored appointments and vaccines and spay/neuter at SAK Sunday clinics (healthy kittens only in Sunday clinics). Sick kittens may not receive care at SAK Sunday clinics and foster homes must seek care elsewhere, including at VCA Blossom Hill, VCA Crocker or VCA Orchard Plaza (sponsored by SJACS), or at their own private veterinarian at their own expense. Kittens are eligible for SJACS low cost clinic services after 3 months of age at no charge until they reach 6 months of age. The foster home must go online to schedule an appointment (www.sanjoseanimals.com). Critically sick, injured or dying kittens are not eligible for sponsored veterinary care. These kittens should be either humanly euthanized or provided immediate veterinary care at the expense of the foster home.
SPAY/NEUTER & ADOPTION – Email [email protected] to schedule Sunday Clinic S/N for healthy kittens that have been vaccinated for at least 7 days and weigh at least 2 lbs. You can also go online at www.sanjoseanimals.com to request a spay/neuter appointment during the week. Identify kittens as “Save A Kitten” in additional comments section. Healthy, vaccinated kittens that weigh at least 1.3 pounds and are weaned can be returned to the SJACS for adoption.
GENERAL QUESTIONS
Email [email protected] with any non-emergency questions. This is staffed by volunteers and checked once a week so please be patient. The rest of this guide should answer most of your questions
SUPPLIES - Go to shelter located at 2750 Monterey Rd, San Jose, CA 95111 with A# and a list of supplies you need, Tuesday through Saturday from 11a-7p and Sunday from 11a-5p. They can usually provide canned and dry food, formula, bottles, nipples, bedding, litter and box, toys, laundry, newspaper, cardboard carriers while supplies last. THIS WILL END SEPTEMBER 30, 2016
CHECK-UP – Contact the following clinics below to schedule a wellness exam and vaccinations for your kittens. Bring ALL medical records to appointments. THIS WILL END SEPTEMBER 30, 2016
VCA Orchard Plaza, 5841 Cottle Rd, San Jose, CA 95123
(408) 227-9110, Mon – Fri: 7AM – 8PM / Saturday 7:30AM – 5PM / Sunday CLOSED
PAWS Sponsored Clinic at Canine Corral, 2045 Woodard Rd, San Jose, CA 95124
WALK-IN ONLY, First Saturday of the month, 2-4PM
PAWS Sponsored Clinic at Andy’s Pet Shop, 51 Notre Dame Ave, San Jose, CA 95113
WALK-IN ONLY, Third Saturday of the month, 2-4PM
VET APPOINTMENT FOR SICK KITTENS (NON-EMERGENCY, MUST HAVE A#s)
THIS WILL END ON SEPTEMBER 30, 2016
Any time you are concerned about the health of your kitten, or any time kittens show any signs or symptoms of disease, including the following: runny eyes or nose, diarrhea, vomiting, constipation - now bowel movement in 40 hours, dehydration – urine is darker in color and not urinating as much, not gaining weight, losing weight, decreased appetite, blood in stool, other conditions that do not appear to be imminently life-threatening. Please call a veterinarian AS SOON AS YOU SEE ANY SIGNS OF ANYTHING NOT NORMAL – DO NOT WAIT! These issues can become critical quickly.
You MUST have an A# for the kitten when making the appointment and when going to the appointment in order for the appointment to be paid by SJACS. No Exceptions! The clinics listed below will see your sick kittens free of charge. Bring ALL medical records to appointments. Clinics that can see sick kittens are:
VCA Blossom Hill, 955 Blossom Hill Rd, San Jose, CA 95123 / (408) 227-3717
Monday – Friday, 7AM – 7PM / Saturday, 8AM – 4PM / Sunday, CLOSED
VCA Crocker, 475 N Jackson Ave, San Jose, CA 95133 / (408) 272-1330
Monday – Friday, 7AM–8PM / Saturday & Sunday, 9AM–5PM
VCA Orchard, 5841 Cottle Rd, San Jose, CA 95123 / (408) 227-9110
Monday – Friday, 7AM – 8PM / Saturday, 7:30AM – 5PM / Sunday, CLOSED
EMERGENCY CARE
There are some things you can do to avoid emergency, critical conditions which include practicing proper husbandry, meaning, kittens are well nourished, warm, living in clean and dry environments, not exposed to other kittens and mothers that are not their litter mates. Please seek veterinary advice prior to combining litters of kittens.
Kittens that are in critical condition often do not survive. This can happen despite the very best care and efforts on the part of the foster home. There may come a time where one or several of your kittens are in need of emergency care. This can be a frightening experience and it is important for you to remain calm. Your kitten is in distress and requires emergency care if any of the following is true:
If you would like to have kittens treated in their critical state, you may do so at your expense at a veterinarian of your choosing. SJACS recommends that kittens in critical condition who will not receive treatment, are euthanized as soon as possible. Take critical kittens to the shelter for euthanasia between 7 a.m. and 9 p.m. every day. SVVS will also take in critically sick or injured kittens for euthanasia at no expense to the foster home.
CLINICS
Silicon Valley Veterinary Specialist: CONTRACTED WITH SJACS
7160 Santa Teresa Blvd, San Jose / 408-649-7070 / OPEN: 24/7
United Emergency Animal Clinic (EAC) – AT FOSTER HOME EXPENSE
905 Dell Ave, Campbell / 408-371-6252 / OPEN: 24/7
United Emergency Animal Clinic (EAC) – AT FOSTER HOME EXPENSE
5440 Thornwood Dr, San Jose / 408-578-5622 / OPEN: 6PM - 8AM Weeknights
24 hours on Weekends and Holidays
SAGE – AT FOSTER HOME EXPENSE
907 Dell Ave, Campbell (next door to EAC) / 408-343-7243 / OPEN: 24/7
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS A PILOT PROGRAM. SPONSORSHIP FROM SAN JOSE ANIMAL CARE CENTER ENDS SEPTEMBER 30, 2016.
- Kittens are brought to SJACS. They may or may not be with a mother cat.
- SJACS notifies SAK that kittens need help and by when they need help
- SAK posts the kittens on their Facebook Page
- SJACS staff cares for kittens during the day when they are able until a rescue or temporary or permanent foster home can be found
- Foster homes, rescues and volunteers arrive at the shelter to pick up kittens to either transport them to their foster home or foster the kittens themselves
- SJACS provides supplies to foster homes who are not operating under a rescue group
- SJACS schedules spay/neuter appointments free of charge to the foster home and sponsors non-emergency medical care to kittens while in the care of foster homes not operating under a rescue group, shelter or humane society.
- SAK continues to look for a rescue group and/or home for the kittens so that they can be adopted after spay or neuter. Healthy, vaccinated kittens that weigh at least 1.3 pounds and are weaned can be returned to the SJACS for adoption.
RULES OF PARTICIPATION (SPONSORSHIP FROM SJACS ENDS SEPTEMBER 30, 2016)
Only unaltered kittens under 3 months of age in foster homes not operating under a rescue, shelter or humane society are eligible. Foster homes must present kennel card with A# whenever requesting any services or supplies. Foster homes may receive supplies, VCA sponsored appointments and vaccines and spay/neuter at SAK Sunday clinics (healthy kittens only in Sunday clinics). Sick kittens may not receive care at SAK Sunday clinics and foster homes must seek care elsewhere, including at VCA Blossom Hill, VCA Crocker or VCA Orchard Plaza (sponsored by SJACS), or at their own private veterinarian at their own expense. Kittens are eligible for SJACS low cost clinic services after 3 months of age at no charge until they reach 6 months of age. The foster home must go online to schedule an appointment (www.sanjoseanimals.com). Critically sick, injured or dying kittens are not eligible for sponsored veterinary care. These kittens should be either humanly euthanized or provided immediate veterinary care at the expense of the foster home.
SPAY/NEUTER & ADOPTION – Email [email protected] to schedule Sunday Clinic S/N for healthy kittens that have been vaccinated for at least 7 days and weigh at least 2 lbs. You can also go online at www.sanjoseanimals.com to request a spay/neuter appointment during the week. Identify kittens as “Save A Kitten” in additional comments section. Healthy, vaccinated kittens that weigh at least 1.3 pounds and are weaned can be returned to the SJACS for adoption.
GENERAL QUESTIONS
Email [email protected] with any non-emergency questions. This is staffed by volunteers and checked once a week so please be patient. The rest of this guide should answer most of your questions
SUPPLIES - Go to shelter located at 2750 Monterey Rd, San Jose, CA 95111 with A# and a list of supplies you need, Tuesday through Saturday from 11a-7p and Sunday from 11a-5p. They can usually provide canned and dry food, formula, bottles, nipples, bedding, litter and box, toys, laundry, newspaper, cardboard carriers while supplies last. THIS WILL END SEPTEMBER 30, 2016
CHECK-UP – Contact the following clinics below to schedule a wellness exam and vaccinations for your kittens. Bring ALL medical records to appointments. THIS WILL END SEPTEMBER 30, 2016
VCA Orchard Plaza, 5841 Cottle Rd, San Jose, CA 95123
(408) 227-9110, Mon – Fri: 7AM – 8PM / Saturday 7:30AM – 5PM / Sunday CLOSED
PAWS Sponsored Clinic at Canine Corral, 2045 Woodard Rd, San Jose, CA 95124
WALK-IN ONLY, First Saturday of the month, 2-4PM
PAWS Sponsored Clinic at Andy’s Pet Shop, 51 Notre Dame Ave, San Jose, CA 95113
WALK-IN ONLY, Third Saturday of the month, 2-4PM
VET APPOINTMENT FOR SICK KITTENS (NON-EMERGENCY, MUST HAVE A#s)
THIS WILL END ON SEPTEMBER 30, 2016
Any time you are concerned about the health of your kitten, or any time kittens show any signs or symptoms of disease, including the following: runny eyes or nose, diarrhea, vomiting, constipation - now bowel movement in 40 hours, dehydration – urine is darker in color and not urinating as much, not gaining weight, losing weight, decreased appetite, blood in stool, other conditions that do not appear to be imminently life-threatening. Please call a veterinarian AS SOON AS YOU SEE ANY SIGNS OF ANYTHING NOT NORMAL – DO NOT WAIT! These issues can become critical quickly.
You MUST have an A# for the kitten when making the appointment and when going to the appointment in order for the appointment to be paid by SJACS. No Exceptions! The clinics listed below will see your sick kittens free of charge. Bring ALL medical records to appointments. Clinics that can see sick kittens are:
VCA Blossom Hill, 955 Blossom Hill Rd, San Jose, CA 95123 / (408) 227-3717
Monday – Friday, 7AM – 7PM / Saturday, 8AM – 4PM / Sunday, CLOSED
VCA Crocker, 475 N Jackson Ave, San Jose, CA 95133 / (408) 272-1330
Monday – Friday, 7AM–8PM / Saturday & Sunday, 9AM–5PM
VCA Orchard, 5841 Cottle Rd, San Jose, CA 95123 / (408) 227-9110
Monday – Friday, 7AM – 8PM / Saturday, 7:30AM – 5PM / Sunday, CLOSED
EMERGENCY CARE
There are some things you can do to avoid emergency, critical conditions which include practicing proper husbandry, meaning, kittens are well nourished, warm, living in clean and dry environments, not exposed to other kittens and mothers that are not their litter mates. Please seek veterinary advice prior to combining litters of kittens.
Kittens that are in critical condition often do not survive. This can happen despite the very best care and efforts on the part of the foster home. There may come a time where one or several of your kittens are in need of emergency care. This can be a frightening experience and it is important for you to remain calm. Your kitten is in distress and requires emergency care if any of the following is true:
- Lethargic (not very responsive and seems “passed out”, not just sleeping)
- Not eaten any food in 8 hours AND is under 3 weeks old (under 0.75 pounds)
- Actively bleeding or injured and can see bone or internal organs, or bone appears broken
- Open mouth panting, difficulty breathing
If you would like to have kittens treated in their critical state, you may do so at your expense at a veterinarian of your choosing. SJACS recommends that kittens in critical condition who will not receive treatment, are euthanized as soon as possible. Take critical kittens to the shelter for euthanasia between 7 a.m. and 9 p.m. every day. SVVS will also take in critically sick or injured kittens for euthanasia at no expense to the foster home.
CLINICS
Silicon Valley Veterinary Specialist: CONTRACTED WITH SJACS
7160 Santa Teresa Blvd, San Jose / 408-649-7070 / OPEN: 24/7
United Emergency Animal Clinic (EAC) – AT FOSTER HOME EXPENSE
905 Dell Ave, Campbell / 408-371-6252 / OPEN: 24/7
United Emergency Animal Clinic (EAC) – AT FOSTER HOME EXPENSE
5440 Thornwood Dr, San Jose / 408-578-5622 / OPEN: 6PM - 8AM Weeknights
24 hours on Weekends and Holidays
SAGE – AT FOSTER HOME EXPENSE
907 Dell Ave, Campbell (next door to EAC) / 408-343-7243 / OPEN: 24/7
| Updated SAK Resource Guide |
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Socializing Hissy, Scared or Shy Kittens (tips from Alley Cat Allies)
CONFINEMENT
Keep kittens in a room that can be closed off, like a bathroom or spare bedroom. This will give you easy access and won’t give them an opportunity to hide in a hard-to-reach spot. This small space will also calm them and allow them to easily find their food, water, and litter, while keeping any pets or small children away.
Use the proper cage to confine your kittens. If they are extremely small, use nylon cages—not wire—so they can’t escape through bars. The cage should be large enough to hold a den, food and water dishes, a litter box, and soft, comfortable bedding. See 'Tools of the Trade' below.
Provide a safe zone or ‘den’—such as a small box with blankets or a feral cat den—in the kittens’ cage. This hiding place provides security and gives them a way to feel comfortable and not threatened. Kittens must feel relaxed in your home.
Make sure that the room is kitten-proofed, so if they get out of your hands, they will still be safe. You don’t want them to be able to crawl under doorways or furniture or into vents—anywhere that is difficult for you to reach, or dangerous for them. Don't confine the kittens to a room with no windows, or a room that is often very noisy. The kittens need to feel comfortable and safe in their environment!
SOCIALIZATION
Getting comfortable – Follow these tips to make kittens feel more at home.
Give kittens an initial two-day adjustment period after trapping (or picking up from a shelter) before you begin interacting with them too much. Set the kittens’ crate up off floor so they feel more comfortable. Felines feel safer if they are higher and not at ground level. Move slowly and speak softly around the kittens. If you wear shoes indoors, consider slippers or socks around the kittens. Don't play loud music or musical instruments. Let the kittens be a part of the household action. Leave a TV or radio on after the kittens have been in your home for a few days, so they become accustomed to human voices and sounds. If exposure to other pets is not an issue, set the whole crate in a busy living room with a TV playing. For young kittens, a ticking clock wrapped in a towel sounds like a mother cat’s heartbeat and is very soothing.
Kittens will respond to positive experiences. Reward positive behaviors, like the kittens approaching you for attention or after a good play session and prevent negative experiences like scolding or confrontations with other pets. Gauge each kitten’s ability to learn and become accustomed to you. Evaluate each individually—don’t go by set rules. Be patient! Spitting, hissing, and hiding are all expressions of fear; do not mistake these signs for aggression.
If a litter of kittens are slow to socialize, consider separating them. Isolating the kittens forces them to rely on people. If you can’t, make sure you spend quality time alone with each one. Litters can be put back together after a short adjustment period. Don't try to rush the socialization process. Be patient, and monitor the progress of each individual kitten.
Food is the key to socialization. Providing the kitten with food creates an incentive for the kitten to interact with you and forms a positive association, ensuring that she connects you with the food she loves so much.You may keep dry kitten food out all day. When you feed wet food, stay in the room while the kittens eat it, so they associate you with food and begin to trust you. If the kittens are very timid, try to first give them food on a spoon.Over time, gradually move the food plate closer to your body while you sit in the room, until the plate is in your lap and the kittens are comfortable crawling on you to get to it.
Pet and handle the kittens for the first time while they are eating, so they have an incentive to stay put. Start petting around the face, chin, and behind the ears and work up to petting all over.
Gradually work up to holding kittens, making sure to reward them with some canned cat food or chicken-flavored baby food on a spoon. Gerber chicken baby food is a special incentive for kittens.
Don’t offer food to kittens on your finger or allow kittens to play with your hand or bite or scratch you. A bite from even a young kitten can be painful and dangerous and it teaches the kittens that biting is acceptable behavior. This rule is especially important when raising single kittens without siblings.
Socializing with touch and play – It's important to get kittens used to being handled at a young age, so they are used to this interaction when they grow up. Devote at least two hours per day for successful socialization. You can do a few long sessions or several shorter sessions. Get down to the kittens’ level and play with them; particularly kittens eight weeks and younger.
Take time to socialize each of the kittens individually. Handling them away from the group can speed up the socialization process by making them more dependent on you. Hold the kittens as much as possible. Make sure they are close to your body so they feel your body warmth and heart beat. This is especially productive after they have eaten, so they associate you with the food and the cuddles. Use toys to entice kittens to play as soon as they are interested, usually around three to four weeks of age.
If a kitten is particularly feisty, put her in a front carrying pack (see equipment list below) or papoose her in a towel with only the head out and hold her while doing things around the house. After kittens are comfortable enough with you to fall asleep on your lap or purr in your presence, they can move from the initial confinement space to a larger, kitten-proof room.
Introduce new friends! Your goal is to socialize the kittens so that they are comfortable around all people and pets and will be happy in their new homes, so introduce them to new some faces. As long as all are healthy (and after a two week 'quarantine' period), you can introduce kittens to an adult socialized cat. Monitor this interaction, especially the first few times, in case you need to intervene. A neutered tom will likely play and groom the kittens, which helps the socialization process.
Introduce kittens to as many people as you can to adjust them to strangers and unexpected circumstances. If there are other friendly animals in your household, exposing kittens to them will only help the kittens' socialization, and broaden the scope of potential adoptive homes they would do well in!
Even a scratch from a kitten can hurt. Make sure to take precautions to keep both you and the kittens safe. Scared kittens can hurt you if you are not careful; wear gloves or protective clothing if you feel it is needed. Don't take chances. Sometimes you have to scruff kittens by the back of their neck to gain control. Learn how to safely scruff a kitten as shown in the photo. Use your entire hand and gently but firmly grasp the fur on back of neck without pinching, pull the cat up, and immediately support her hind legs.
KEEPING KITTENS SAFE
Do not use toxic cleaning products or leave them in the room with kittens, including Lysol®, and wet wipes. For clean-ups, use diluted bleach solutions (one part bleach to 15 parts water) in small amounts.
If kittens are in your bathroom, pull the shower curtain up and out of the way, so they don’t climb it. Take ALL knick-knacks out of the room (i.e., perfume bottles, soap bottles, jewelry, figurines, etc.)
Do not allow very young children to play with or help socialize very young kittens. They are not old enough to understand and react to the temperament and behavior of feral (or scared) kittens.
Don’t keep kittens in a room with a reclining chair. The kittens can be injured or killed if they go inside the chair and accidentally get closed underneath.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Keep kittens in a room that can be closed off, like a bathroom or spare bedroom. This will give you easy access and won’t give them an opportunity to hide in a hard-to-reach spot. This small space will also calm them and allow them to easily find their food, water, and litter, while keeping any pets or small children away.
Use the proper cage to confine your kittens. If they are extremely small, use nylon cages—not wire—so they can’t escape through bars. The cage should be large enough to hold a den, food and water dishes, a litter box, and soft, comfortable bedding. See 'Tools of the Trade' below.
Provide a safe zone or ‘den’—such as a small box with blankets or a feral cat den—in the kittens’ cage. This hiding place provides security and gives them a way to feel comfortable and not threatened. Kittens must feel relaxed in your home.
Make sure that the room is kitten-proofed, so if they get out of your hands, they will still be safe. You don’t want them to be able to crawl under doorways or furniture or into vents—anywhere that is difficult for you to reach, or dangerous for them. Don't confine the kittens to a room with no windows, or a room that is often very noisy. The kittens need to feel comfortable and safe in their environment!
SOCIALIZATION
Getting comfortable – Follow these tips to make kittens feel more at home.
Give kittens an initial two-day adjustment period after trapping (or picking up from a shelter) before you begin interacting with them too much. Set the kittens’ crate up off floor so they feel more comfortable. Felines feel safer if they are higher and not at ground level. Move slowly and speak softly around the kittens. If you wear shoes indoors, consider slippers or socks around the kittens. Don't play loud music or musical instruments. Let the kittens be a part of the household action. Leave a TV or radio on after the kittens have been in your home for a few days, so they become accustomed to human voices and sounds. If exposure to other pets is not an issue, set the whole crate in a busy living room with a TV playing. For young kittens, a ticking clock wrapped in a towel sounds like a mother cat’s heartbeat and is very soothing.
Kittens will respond to positive experiences. Reward positive behaviors, like the kittens approaching you for attention or after a good play session and prevent negative experiences like scolding or confrontations with other pets. Gauge each kitten’s ability to learn and become accustomed to you. Evaluate each individually—don’t go by set rules. Be patient! Spitting, hissing, and hiding are all expressions of fear; do not mistake these signs for aggression.
If a litter of kittens are slow to socialize, consider separating them. Isolating the kittens forces them to rely on people. If you can’t, make sure you spend quality time alone with each one. Litters can be put back together after a short adjustment period. Don't try to rush the socialization process. Be patient, and monitor the progress of each individual kitten.
Food is the key to socialization. Providing the kitten with food creates an incentive for the kitten to interact with you and forms a positive association, ensuring that she connects you with the food she loves so much.You may keep dry kitten food out all day. When you feed wet food, stay in the room while the kittens eat it, so they associate you with food and begin to trust you. If the kittens are very timid, try to first give them food on a spoon.Over time, gradually move the food plate closer to your body while you sit in the room, until the plate is in your lap and the kittens are comfortable crawling on you to get to it.
Pet and handle the kittens for the first time while they are eating, so they have an incentive to stay put. Start petting around the face, chin, and behind the ears and work up to petting all over.
Gradually work up to holding kittens, making sure to reward them with some canned cat food or chicken-flavored baby food on a spoon. Gerber chicken baby food is a special incentive for kittens.
Don’t offer food to kittens on your finger or allow kittens to play with your hand or bite or scratch you. A bite from even a young kitten can be painful and dangerous and it teaches the kittens that biting is acceptable behavior. This rule is especially important when raising single kittens without siblings.
Socializing with touch and play – It's important to get kittens used to being handled at a young age, so they are used to this interaction when they grow up. Devote at least two hours per day for successful socialization. You can do a few long sessions or several shorter sessions. Get down to the kittens’ level and play with them; particularly kittens eight weeks and younger.
Take time to socialize each of the kittens individually. Handling them away from the group can speed up the socialization process by making them more dependent on you. Hold the kittens as much as possible. Make sure they are close to your body so they feel your body warmth and heart beat. This is especially productive after they have eaten, so they associate you with the food and the cuddles. Use toys to entice kittens to play as soon as they are interested, usually around three to four weeks of age.
If a kitten is particularly feisty, put her in a front carrying pack (see equipment list below) or papoose her in a towel with only the head out and hold her while doing things around the house. After kittens are comfortable enough with you to fall asleep on your lap or purr in your presence, they can move from the initial confinement space to a larger, kitten-proof room.
Introduce new friends! Your goal is to socialize the kittens so that they are comfortable around all people and pets and will be happy in their new homes, so introduce them to new some faces. As long as all are healthy (and after a two week 'quarantine' period), you can introduce kittens to an adult socialized cat. Monitor this interaction, especially the first few times, in case you need to intervene. A neutered tom will likely play and groom the kittens, which helps the socialization process.
Introduce kittens to as many people as you can to adjust them to strangers and unexpected circumstances. If there are other friendly animals in your household, exposing kittens to them will only help the kittens' socialization, and broaden the scope of potential adoptive homes they would do well in!
Even a scratch from a kitten can hurt. Make sure to take precautions to keep both you and the kittens safe. Scared kittens can hurt you if you are not careful; wear gloves or protective clothing if you feel it is needed. Don't take chances. Sometimes you have to scruff kittens by the back of their neck to gain control. Learn how to safely scruff a kitten as shown in the photo. Use your entire hand and gently but firmly grasp the fur on back of neck without pinching, pull the cat up, and immediately support her hind legs.
KEEPING KITTENS SAFE
Do not use toxic cleaning products or leave them in the room with kittens, including Lysol®, and wet wipes. For clean-ups, use diluted bleach solutions (one part bleach to 15 parts water) in small amounts.
If kittens are in your bathroom, pull the shower curtain up and out of the way, so they don’t climb it. Take ALL knick-knacks out of the room (i.e., perfume bottles, soap bottles, jewelry, figurines, etc.)
Do not allow very young children to play with or help socialize very young kittens. They are not old enough to understand and react to the temperament and behavior of feral (or scared) kittens.
Don’t keep kittens in a room with a reclining chair. The kittens can be injured or killed if they go inside the chair and accidentally get closed underneath.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
- Confinement pens
- Large dog wire crate
- Cat Condo
- Lightweight nylon portable soft crate
- Bedding materials
- Dens or other safe nesting items
- Litter box and litter
- Kitten food—dry and canned
- Food and water dishes
- Treats, like human baby food (without onion)
- Interactive toys, such as balls, rope toys, crinkle toys, and scratching posts
- Radio (tuned to talk radio), or space in a room with common household noise (TV, dishwasher, vacuum cleaner, etc.)
- Nylon front pack—hands free vest carrier for socializing
- Gloves and towels
For some videos on taming shy and scared kittens, please check out these links:
http://www.nycferalcat.org/newsletter/2008-07/kittens.htm
http://www.nycferalcat.org/newsletter/2008-07/kittens.htm
